FromSwamptoSummit

Our six month sabbatical is now two years in the past, and it’s surely time to finish up my account There’s Orvieto to go – and then our stay in Rome. But I do have to say that writing these posts, which are almost verbatim from my travel diary is a wonderful way to revisit these places. Especially on a humid and hot Orlando day, when the thunderstorms rolled in before noon.

Once you arrive at the Orvieto train station, you buy a one euro and thirty cent ticket and take the funicular (what a great word) up the cliff to the town. From there, a shuttle bus takes you to the Duomo.

Our La Magnolia BnB (a Rick Steves recommendation) was just a half block away. We checked in and then took a preliminary stroll around town. By then it was raining. After seeking shelter back at the hotel, we had to wait until 7 for dinner – no restaurants open until then. We ended up at Ristorante I’ll Cocco, recommended by the hotel. It was a bit expensive and no one spoke any English, but it was really good. I had rabbit with herbs, and J had a chicken cacciatore with olives. There was an amazing apple cake for dessert.

After breakfast at the cafe next door, which was owned by the same family, we toured the Duomo. More Signarelli artwork – Last Judgment paintings – and a chapel housing the bloodstained cloth where the Host is supposed to have bled, thus proving the doctrine of transubstantiation.

We also went to the Cathedral and Greco museums, which were included with the Duomo ticket. Greco designed the modern doors of the Duomo and to see his nudes next door is quite a contrast.

We followed all this with the Underground Orvieto tour – entering two of the thousand plus caves located underneath the houses here, including a well that dates back to the sixth century B.C. Most of the caves are medieval – having run out of room in the town (at one point 30,000 souls lived here, now only 5,000), plus needing room for supplies when under siege (which was most of the time), the inhabitants resorted to underground caves. Pigeons turned out to be the answer to the food problem, and the caves on the side of the cliff were actually pigeon houses with nooks for nesting.

Onto a huge lunch, which featured a porcetta sandwich – slow roasted pork, with crispy skin and stuffed with liver and fennel. I was full for hours.

By then it was raining steadily. J wanted to rest, but I wanted to do the remainder of the Rick Steves tour. It took me through various squares, and at a certain point I realized I was tailing another couple who were clearly following the same guide!

I came upon the church of S. Giovenale – the couple ahead of me stuck their heads in and turned around. But I ventured all the way in. It was totally dark, except for an illuminated chapel. It’s the oldest church in Orvieto, Romanesque in style, 11th century frescoes on the walls. Supposedly a mass was to occur at 5 p.m. but I had my doubts. It made for a serene shelter from the rain.

I finished my walk, in a somewhat soggy state, and made it back to La Magnolia. J and I ended up at a very modern restaurant called Febo. And a veggie burger was a nice change after porcetta.

Orvieto was absolutely charming, and I’d go back in a heartbeat. The excitement of Rome beckoned though – as well as the end of our six weeks of travel.